Captive Bead Ring Fit & How-To Guide
Fit: gauge is the wire, diameter is the inside of the hoop. 16G with a 3/8 inch (10mm) diameter fits most septum, lip, eyebrow and cartilage piercings, 5/16 inch (8mm) for a snugger fit; 14G with 1/2 inch (12mm) is nipple and conch territory, where the ring needs room to clear swelling. Beads run 3mm on 16G and 4mm on 14G. Match the gauge and diameter you wear now; both are on every product page. Rings are for healed piercings: heal on the bar your piercer placed, then switch to the hoop.
Opening one without pliers: at 16G and 18G, push the bead out sideways with a thumb, seat the new bead in one dimple, and press the other end onto it. If the ring is tight, open it a hair by twisting the ends sideways, out of the circle, never by pulling the gap wider. A bead that keeps escaping means the ring was opened too far; close it a touch and it grips again. Thick 14G and 12G rings want ring-opening pliers, and lost beads are replaceable by gauge and bead size.
Metal: most captives here are 316L surgical steel, the everyday standard, with a trace of nickel locked in the alloy that most people never notice; gold-tone, rose-tone, black and rainbow are PVD, IP or anodized finishes over steel, and the title names the finish. Skin that argues with steel goes to solid 14k gold (yellow is nickel-free) or implant-grade titanium. Nothing here is plated mystery metal.
Captives by piercing and metal: